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From tree to chair

The basics of making a chair from a tree using traditional hand tools


To make a chair, I start out by splitting the logs with a froe into sections a little larger than the final dimensions. 

froe

Then, I shape the pieces with a draw knife, working on my shaving horse (a traditional work holding vice, the ideal partner for the plane).

spoke shave and shaving horse


draw knife


The components of the chair can be entirely shaped with a draw knife and a spoke shave, or with a draw knife and a lathe (mine is a foot powered pole-lathe).

spoke shave


spring pole-lathe


The curved chair parts are steam-bent.

steam-bent chair parts

steam-bent chair parts


When the time comes to assemble the chair, the legs must be dry, that is to say, they have more or less the same degree of humidity as the surrounding air. The rungs, on the other hand, are much drier. Thus, the tenons at their ends swell slightly in the mortises, making the assemblies very solid and durable even though they are not glued.

chair


chair


As all parts are cleft rather than sawn, the grain of the wood is respected, which means that the parts are guaranteed optimum strength and can often have a smaller diameter than if they were sawn.

Thanks to this ancient technique, the chair is lighter, more elegant, stronger and has the unique character of true handwork!

chair green wood traditional hand tools


Each chair is treated only with natural oil.

Green woodworking also has a light ecological footprint. The wood comes from local forests and small diameter trees normally intended for firewood. Transport is limited, as the wood does not pass through the sawmill. Finally, simple hand tools are best suited for most operations; power tools are not necessary.

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For various internal reasons at Falci, the quality of their blades has recently declined significantly, to the point that in 2024 we had to return several models of blades we had ordered, which is why we no longer offer certain models (or certain lengths of certain models) in our shop.

There has been a deterioration in several blade characteristics, which has a negative impact on their ease of use and their effectiveness.

We hope that Falci will once again be able to produce blades of the excellent quality we have known. We're keeping in touch with them regarding this issue and are closely monitoring the situation.

In the meantime, rest assured, we continue to sell only Falci blades of good, very good, or excellent quality, from previous production runs.

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Mowing grasses and other soft vegetation requires proper maintenance of the blade, which includes peening the edge with an appropriate hammer and peening anvil, and whetting it with a natural whetstone. The whetstone is carried in a whetstone holder on the belt, immersed in water with a bit of vinegar. Adding a small drizzle of vinegar increases the stone's bite and helps keep it clean and functional.


Peening draws out the steel to ensure the correct thinness and geometry of the edge. This operation is done on average after every four hours of mowing, but this time span varies depending on the vegetation, the conditions, the whetstone used, and the mower's technique.


Then, in the meadow, the edge is honed with a whetstone every few minutes, as soon as a little more resistance is felt and/or if the scythe cuts the grass less well.


Frequent peening and honing are essential for proper blade performance!

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